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To transfer a pattern to wood, sand the wood smooth, then use graphite transfer paper under the pattern and trace over the lines with a pencil. You can also rub a soft pencil over the back of the pattern, sketch lightly by hand or trace with tracing paper. Keep lines faint and don’t press hard.
In this article
What you need
- Sanded, smooth, untreated wood
- Your pattern, printed at the size you need
- Graphite transfer paper (or a soft pencil, such as 2B to 4B)
- A hard pencil or stylus for tracing
- Low-tack masking tape or similar to hold the pattern
- A soft or kneaded eraser, and a ruler
Prepare the wood first
A clean transfer starts with a smooth surface. Sand the wood with fine sandpaper, with the grain, until it feels smooth, then wipe off all dust. Rough wood catches the pencil and gives broken, wobbly lines, and dust turns into smudges.
Decide where the design will sit before you tape anything down. Hold the pattern over the blank, check the margins on every side and mark the centre with two light pencil ticks. Planning placement now avoids a design that sits crooked or runs off the edge.
Method 1: graphite transfer paper
Graphite transfer paper is the most popular method because it is quick, accurate and easy to erase. It is a thin sheet coated with graphite on one side.
- Place the transfer paper graphite-side down on the wood.
- Place your pattern on top, right way up, and tape it so it cannot slide.
- Trace the lines of the pattern with a hard pencil or a stylus, using light, even pressure.
- Lift a corner carefully to check the transfer before you remove everything.
- Remove the paper and check the lines. They should be faint but visible.
- Fix any gaps freehand with a light pencil line.
Method 2: pencil rubbing
This method needs only a soft pencil and is useful when you do not have transfer paper.
- Turn the pattern face down and rub a soft pencil (for example 2B to 4B) over the back of all the lines, shading the paper thinly and evenly.
- Turn the pattern face up and tape it to the wood.
- Trace over the lines firmly but gently with a hard pencil or a ballpoint pen that has been allowed to dry, or a stylus.
- Lift the pattern and check the result.
- Redraw any faint areas lightly in pencil.
Method 3: freehand sketching
If you are confident with a pencil, sketch the design directly on the wood. Use a light touch and a soft pencil, and begin with the largest shapes, such as the outline of a leaf or the layout of a word, then add details. Use a ruler for straight lines and compasses or a round object for circles.
Freehand sketching is especially useful for natural shapes, where small variations look attractive. For anything that needs to be exactly centred or evenly spaced, such as lettering or borders, use guidelines or another method.
Method 4: tracing paper and tape
Tracing paper is ideal for copying your own drawings or a pattern you cannot print. Lay the tracing paper over the drawing and trace it with a pencil. You can then use the tracing in one of two ways: rub the back with soft pencil and trace it on to the wood as in Method 2, or place it over graphite transfer paper as in Method 1.
Tracing paper has a second advantage: you can lay it over the wood to check the design before you transfer anything. If you want to use the same design again, keep the tracing. It becomes a template.
Scaling the pattern to the right size
Patterns often need resizing. Measure the blank, decide how much margin you want, and then print or copy the pattern at the right size. Check that your printer is printing at 100 percent, with no “fit to page” scaling, and measure any scale bar on the pattern to confirm. Our free starter pack includes a scale-check line for this reason.
If a pattern is slightly too large or too small, resize it on a printer or copier, or redraw it. Do not force a design to fit by cropping it. A pattern that is too big for a coaster often looks better as a smaller leaf with generous space around it.
Transferring to curved or small pieces
Curved surfaces and small pieces need extra care because paper does not lie flat on them.
- Cut the pattern into sections and transfer one section at a time, taping each one at the edges.
- For round items such as spoon handles, wrap and tape the paper so that it follows the curve, then trace carefully.
- For very small pieces, trace the design with a very light touch, since there is little room for mistakes.
- Support thin blanks fully on the bench so they do not flex when you trace.
Lettering and symmetrical designs
With text, check spelling and direction before you transfer anything. Graphite transfer paper and pencil rubbing keep the pattern the right way round, but any method that involves flipping the paper will mirror it. Check with a quick test on scrap before using your good blank.
Use a ruler and light guidelines for baselines and letter heights, mark the centre of the blank and the centre of the word and line them up before you trace. For symmetrical designs, such as a mandala or a border, trace the centre lines first and build outward.
Fixing smudges and erasing lines
Pencil and graphite can smudge, particularly if your hand rests on the lines while you trace. Use a clean sheet of paper under your hand, and wash your hands before you start.
To remove stray marks, use a soft or kneaded eraser with a light touch. Avoid heavy erasing, which can rub up the wood surface, and avoid sanding aggressively. Lines that you will burn over do not need to be removed, since the burn covers them. After burning, clean up any remaining pencil marks with an eraser or very light sanding.
Common transfer mistakes
- Pressing too hard. Soft woods such as basswood dent easily, and a dent catches the pen later.
- Using the wrong paper. Wax-based carbon paper can leave marks that are hard to remove, so use graphite transfer paper.
- Using heavy, dark pencil lines. They are harder to cover, and the graphite can smear.
- Skipping the placement check. Always check the design is centred and has clear margins.
- Using wet or damp ink. Ink can stain and bleed into the wood.
- Not checking the scale. Print a test at 100 percent and measure it before you transfer.
See also the guide to common wood burning mistakes.
Where to find patterns
You can draw your own, trace simple shapes from your own photographs, or use patterns that you have the right to use. The free printable pattern pack provides simple starter designs for personal use. Always respect other makers’ copyright and the licence of any pattern. For ideas about what to make, browse the easy wood burning ideas and wood burning techniques guides.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use carbon paper?
It is better to use graphite transfer paper. Ordinary carbon paper is often wax-based and can leave smudges that are hard to remove from wood. If you use it, test on scrap, keep the lines light and be prepared to clean up carefully.
How do I enlarge a pattern?
Use a printer or copier to enlarge the pattern, or redraw it on a grid at a larger scale. Always check the printed size against the blank before you transfer it, and make sure the scaling is set to 100 percent when printing at the original size.
Will the transfer lines show after burning?
Light lines that you burn over are covered by the burn. Any stray pencil marks that remain can be removed with a soft eraser or light sanding after the burn. Keep transfer lines faint and avoid pressing hard, which dents the wood.
Where can I find free wood burning patterns?
You can draw your own, trace simple shapes from your own photographs, or use patterns you have the right to use. Our free pattern pack provides simple starter designs for personal use. Always check the licence of any pattern before using it, especially if you plan to sell finished items.
Can I transfer a pattern to dark wood?
Graphite shows poorly on dark wood. Lighter-coloured transfer paper or chalk-based products are sometimes used, so test on a scrap first. If the transfer lines are hard to see, the burn will be too, so consider a lighter wood for detailed designs.
How do I keep a pattern from shifting?
Tape it at the edges with low-tack tape so that it cannot slide, and check that the blank is supported flat on the bench. Trace slowly, and lift a corner to check before you remove everything.
Your next small step
Choose one technique to practise before starting a finished piece. Read the linked guides for the material, transfer and finishing questions that apply to your project.
